![]() There, Hanslow’s menu zigzags with punchy ferments across a degustation that might include polenta congee dotted with bug meat, fried enoki, sweet corn and jalapeno. Nearby in leafy Ainslie, the trio also operates two-hatted Pilot. The dining room pops with terrazzo tiles, a nubby-textured, boucle-fabric banquette, local ceramics, art by young Australian artists and a hand-blown glass sculpture that looks like a kaleidoscope crossed with a church organ. Partners Dash Rumble and Ross McQuinn opened the smart-casual bistro with chef Malcolm Hanslow in February, opposite the Legislative Plaza in the middle of the city. ![]() Now Such and Such is pitching for new restaurant of the year. It has the most delicious sandwich I’ve eaten in recent memory (the smoked ham and almond pesto number at Sandoochie) and the nation’s greatest cinnamon bun at Under Bakery in Mawson. For the past few years, the city has been home to my favourite place to drink cocktails, the slightly grungy and quietly glamorous Bar Rochford.
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